Jo’s Monday walk : kindness in Lamego

I really wanted to linger a while in Peso da Regua, spellbound by the scale of the river and the boats, but it was hot and much busier than we remembered. After serene Casa de Mateus, it was a shock to the system. So, after a quick bite to eat and a longing look at the sparkling Douro, we trundled south across the bridge, heading for our next destination, high in the Beira Alta.

The Douro region is all about the grape and vineyards, but we were on a mission of a different kind. I had read of the Sanctuary at Lamego, and was curious to see and compare it with Bom Jesus do Monte.

But first we needed to find our accommodation. You would think that with today’s technology that would be a simple matter. Not so! We parked quite close to where it was indicated on the map, and then succeeded in going round and round in circles, trundling our suitcases over the cobbles. The area was a mix of delightfully archaic and modernised, and we could not at all fathom where Rua da Seara had hidden our apartment. Finally we were approached by an elderly lady, who had watched our progress with amusement. And here we come to the kindness of strangers. Without making us feel like village idiots, she patiently led us in the correct direction. Five minutes later we were delivered into the hands of our host. And how we stared when we stepped through the heavy metal door. It hid a wonderful stone stairway and a beautiful conversion job. Even better, a little treat had been laid out for each of us.

You can imagine, we were impressed. Now, should we defer gratification till we’d been for a stroll around? No, don’t be silly- of course we didn’t! A little fortification never hurts before you go exploring.

We had noticed a tiny chapel at the end of our street and made a note to look inside, but by the time we had put the kettle on and eaten our cakes it was closed. As we peered through the railings a young woman in a car pulled up, and called out to the senhora. ‘You won’t regret it- it’s beautiful’, she cried to us. With a rattle of keys the caretaker pulled back the door. And, though dimly lit, it was!

There wasn’t any doubt but that this was a religious place. The shop windows displayed madonnas and religious texts and I lost count of the number of churches. We smiled at the mannequins and the price tags on some of the ‘fashion’ items from another era. No amount of ‘sales’ were going to clear this stock.

But there was an old world charm to the place, and we liked it a lot. Steeply downhill on Rua Olaria (Pottery Street), we smiled at the cat playing with the ball of wool, and strolled a little beneath the chestnut trees leading to Cathedral Square.

Almost enough excitement for one day, a circuit of the block and the extraordinary range of architecture brought us back to our apartment. Much easier to find second time around.

As dusk descended, we lounged a while before sallying forth for supper. It had been a satisfying day.

And still we had castle, cathedral and Sanctuary to look forward to.

It wouldn’t be Monday without a few walks to share. What an emotional Jubilee weekend it was!

………………………………………………………………………………

A walk for all you garden lovers – thanks so much, Susan!

Cooper-Young Annual Garden, 2022, Memphis, Tennessee

A gentle walk in the woods with Teresa :

A Walk in Badger Weir

A city I know pretty well, and Sarah does it justice :

A city walk in Newcastle-upon-Tyne

On the other side of the globe, Mel battles on!

The Great North Walk – Day 2 – Macquarie Park to Hornsby

Nautical connections, from Drake :

Footprints seen from above

Jet enjoys nature in the city :

Seattle’s Green Lake

A heatwave in Toronto? Natalie has the answer :

5 Easy Walks to Cool Off

Riding high on a tide of emotion. The Jubilee and Rafa’s amazing success in Paris. I wish you all a great week!

87 thoughts on “Jo’s Monday walk : kindness in Lamego

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  5. What a very special place to explore and simply enjoy. And one thing that comes through each time you share about the people you encounter, is graciousness. That quality means a lot to me, and I’m impressed. Beautiful photos, Jo.

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    • That’s a good word to describe them, Debbie. People here are kind and generous with their time, and we are accepted into the community with curiosity and respect. It’s a wonderful combination. Thank you!

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  6. What a lovely exploration Jo. How lovely of the lady not to make you feel like village idiots. Haha. But I will say, some of these little places can be tough to find. Beautiful images. And looks free of tourists. Is that the case? Douro like Alentejo is a popular wine region, and I assumed busy with travellers. Lovely post! Makes me want to be there.

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    • Ooh, always fancied Oman. Strangely enough I’m at the Zoo in Lisbon. Not in the zoo but using the WiFi. Met Mari last night, Queluz Palace and gardens this morning and the feet are tired. I’m near the bus station and just chilling in the sunshine, if that isn’t a contradiction in terms ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ’Ÿ Thanks hon!

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  7. It looks like you found another lovely little Portuguese town. How nice that you found that kind onlooker who, after chuckling at your perambulations, delivered you to the hands of your host, who was so welcoming. ๐Ÿ™‚

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    • We had already been to Casa de Mateus and Regua that morning, Cathy, and were ready to get checked in and relax a bit before exploring. It all worked out really well in the end. ๐Ÿค—๐Ÿ’—
      On the coach to Lisbon for another small adventure right now. All ok with you?

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      • Another small adventure in Lisbon!? Will you meet up with Peta and Ben of Green Global Trek? I wondered if you all might get together.

        As for me, all is well. Will go visit my bedridden father tomorrow in Yorktown, with Sarah, and then next Friday, the 17th, hopefully (fingers crossed) we’re off to Ecuador for 3 weeks. This will be our first time south of the equator. ๐Ÿ™‚

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      • Ecuador looks exciting! Have a great trip ๐Ÿค—๐Ÿ’— No, I’ve lost track of Peta and Ben since I changed the blog. Meeting Mari Nicholson at the pousada in Queluz.

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      • I’m very excited and a little nervous, having never been to South America and knowing how parts can be dangerous. But I have to keep reminding myself I’ve been to India, Nepal, Ethiopia, lots of places on the edge! It’s been so long since I’ve pushed myself to do something a little more “out there.”

        Peta and Ben are in all the favorite stomping grounds: Lisbon, Sintra, ร“bidos, Ericeira (their base). I am so inspired by them and their lives! ๐Ÿ™‚ I loved their Africa series.

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      • I’m not a wanderer in that sense, Cathy. It needs both of you to want that. Had I known I would have said hello but I’m heading back to the Algarve tomorrow afternoon. I have an evening walk planned with Mick and meeting friends for lunch on Friday. Just passed Alcacer do Sal, which is beautiful. Take good care ๐Ÿค—๐Ÿ’—

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  9. The kindness of strangers has helped us find where we were staying twice. Both from people that changed their direction to take us to an address we never would have found on our own. I love that beautiful little chapel that you discovered by where you were staying. There are so many hidden treasures that we can pass by and never know they exist.

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    • It’s a nice thing to be able to do, isn’t it? For people who have all the time in the world and are happy to spend it on others. Rural Portugal is full of both them and hidden treasures, Karen ๐Ÿค—๐Ÿ’—

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  11. Yes “much easier to find second time around”, so true. ๐Ÿ˜€
    Wonderful walk, the little black cat knits shown as I would have done – it ends up with a long curly thread. ๐Ÿ˜€

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  12. What a great tour, Jo. I love places like this, not on the main tour list but still with lots to see. Getting lost is part of the charm! I look forward to hearing more about this place.

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  13. Well darn! I thought that you were taking a break from blogging and never realized that I’m no longer ‘following’ you. NOOOOOO! You are always in my heart, and now I have some serious catching up to do.

    That will teach me to stay off the electronic options and out in the wild so often! Tonight I need sleep, and tomorrow is ‘art class day’ which ends at sunset usually – but I’ll be back soon.

    Love,
    Lisa

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  14. Jo, The architecture is beautiful. Kindness when you’re in a new place is appreciated and usually leaves a lasting impression. Thank you for including my walk. Have a wonderful week!

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  15. Wonderful images of an eventually wonderful day, Jo! I’m glad a kind stranger helped you amidst her own amusement, no doubt she has seen it all before ๐Ÿ˜‰ I hope your visit yields new and wonderful surprises! Have a great week!

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  16. I so enjoyed this adventure, Jo, and look forward to hearing more about it. Your narrative is a delight, pleasantly moving along with the joys, discoveries and frustrations of the day, all written in an engaging style, drawing us in. Your line on the “village idiots” and “trundling” suitcases gave me a chuckle; a great reminder of what we all go through in our travels. Also enjoyed the photos so much. I was honored to see a re-blog of my post, it was much appreciated. I cannot keep count of all the times I have thought of you when I’m out walking and exploring. Many thanks and cheers to you.

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  18. Lovely-lovely tiles … for me, it will never lose its charm. The sight of a lovely chapel, charming squares and so many wonderful little nooks … yes, I can see why this was a satisfying day! And that amazing accommodation – I would definitely be happy ๐Ÿ˜€.

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  19. You have a knack of sussing out the loveliest azuelos and photographing them and these are some of the best. A hat’s off to the eclectic architecture as well. Ypu did well to find such a lovely B & B. A place that serves up such a luscious cake deserves a mention in all the guide books! Look forward to the tale of the Sanctuary.

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    • We were so lucky with this apartment, Mari. I left washing out and it was folded up and left on my doorstep. Thanks darlin. Don’t know if you saw my email. I will go and book the coach this afternoon. I’m due an adventure ๐Ÿค—๐Ÿ’—

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